I had the privilege of meeting many of the greats of the past within the surfing community. Within the thick of the pioneering days of the 60’s – living right in there with the emerging surfing cult in Australia as my family was ‘in the industry’ in a major way. Growing up – into the surf world from a very young age – meant experiencing some incredibly inspirational people.
While enjoying these original true stories, you will quickly realise – some of these greats are just human like the rest of us, with all our faults and frailties – in and out of the water and of course, like characters in the dry world, some you wouldn’t want to know.
My personal knowledge and experience of these guys and girls in those days, places me in a perfect position to tell a few funny yarns as I was there, in the flesh and I know they share my enthusiasm for wanting their surfing history told. Portrayed in the raw, so readers can appreciate what a great world it was back then – and still is – and will remain so, as long as there are human heroes combating the surf and defying gravity.
I can vouch for the raw reality portrayed in this book as I am the 3rd generation surf nut in my surfing family and my son is either shaping himself a new surfboard as we speak, or out there on a wave somewhere, to keep the dream alive.
At the time of writing this book in 2017 I’m 55 years young (as surfing tends to keep you that way) and when you pass the 50 mark still on a board, you’ll know you’ve earned the right to tell your story. You will, after decades in the water, acquire an amazing ability to laugh at yourself and lighten up about what other people think (about you or anything else) and you will develop the courage to tell your story, your way.
So…you Wanna be a Surfer? Great… let’s find out!